French Cookbook Reviews: The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook

 
Reviews of The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook

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Review #1: Great old cookbook... but beware!
Review #2: I love you Alice B Toklas
Review #3: Good recipes





Review #1

Great old cookbook... but beware!

This cookbook was originally published by Michael Joseph, London, 1954, and that is the edition that you want. Why? Because all others have edited out Brion Gysin's (the cookbook spells it "Gysen") hilarious "Haschhich Fudge Recipe" on page 259, ("which anyone could whip up on a rainy day," as Gysin humorously noted.)

There are other reasons for obtaining the original London First Edition -- there is so much history associated with this cookbook. Of course Toklas was the lifelong companion of the often controversial feminist author, Gertrude Stein. Toklas continued to champion her companion's philosophies and writings for 20 years subsequent to Stein's death in 1946. The two resided chiefly in Paris and they weathered two world wars, often living in occupied territory, an actuality which was particularly dangerous for Stein who was Jewish, (Toklas was a Catholic.)

Regarding the history of the cookbook, these two ladies hosted many famous celebrities in their home where they were almost always fed by Toklas who prepared the high end meals in the household when guests were present. These people included Hemingway, Picasso, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Leonard Bernstein, Virgil Thompson, Carl Van Vechten, and a laundry list of similarly high-profile notables (I once made a count of over 300 of such associations.) Some of the very dishes that these people were fed are found in this cookbook.

If you acquire the London First Edition try to obtain one with its original dust jacket. It was drawn by Sir Francis Rose and Toklas was not particularly pleased with the result as she commented to a friend which can be read in her post-1946 personal correspondence: Staying On Alone. Rose also completed the other illustrations in the cookbook. (Rose was later involved in some scandalous and nefarious affair which Toklas vaguely alluded to in her letters, the precise nature of which I have been unable to unveil to date, but I continue to research for this juicy tidbit of celebrity gossip!)

If ever there was a scratch cook, it was Toklas. I believe that she truly "invented" more new dishes than any other cook I've ever heard of. In other cases of recipes found herein, she garnered them from small hotels throughout Italy, Spain, and France where her travels with Stein had taken her. These recipes are definitely not for the beginner and many of the ingredients are difficult to obtain. Thankfully, both Toklas and Stein were Americans and so she had the foresight to offer up American substitutions for obscure ingredients in some instances.

It's nice to get a cookbook that you can read like a terrific novel and this is certainly one of those rare editions. It became a burden to Toklas as she trudged on with the project but, with the help and support of her many famous friends, she completed the task and now we can reap the benefit of her phenomenal culinary skills. Anyone interested in traditional French cooking will find this cookbook to be pure treasure.

I should mention, before closing, that Toklas initially found Gysin's "joke recipe" to be appalling but as it turned out to be a slice of marketing genius, they ultimately remained friends for life. I doubt that Toklas knew much of Gysin's associations with his "Beat Generation Pals," such as William S. Burroughs, author of Naked Lunch: The Restored Text. You can read all about it in The Beat Hotel: Ginsberg, Burroughs & Corso in Paris, 1957-1963.

The original London 1954 edition: highly recommended (5 stars for that one)!





Review #2

I love you Alice B Toklas

I have toted this little paperback around for about 25 years. The pages are grey and the cover is grimy. But I am reading it again for the joy of it, and again, realize it is one of my favorite books. Alice Toklas writes in the most enthusiastic, humorous and inquisitive prose that a "cookbook" could ever be presented. She writes each chapter as a special creative venture, and the reader learns how to cook all kinds of home-made French meals following her systematic and patient narrative. Her commentary on dining and cooking with the amazing stars of the art and literature world in pre-war Paris is breath taking in its simplicity and familiarity with said egos!

There are many references to certain menus she and Gertrude Stein dined on- from the country cottage farmer's table to haute cuisine. And wherever they dined, Alice was certain to beg for a recipe to take with her. These recipes add a wonderful scrapbook feel which gives you some absolutely perfect hand me down hits.

My book is the British version I believe, and has the hashish brownie recipe. I tried making it back in the '70's however it was pretty grainy since we didn't use the high quality product Alice most likely had access to. The intro to the brownies is hysterical - she advises the reader to make these on a rainy afternoon and serve to the bridge group ladies or the local DAR chapter meeting. Very tongue in cheek.




Review #3

Good recipes

I particularly recommend the Egg Nog of the Commonwealth Club of Richmond, VA. My husband made this for a party at a friend's house, and everybody loved it! This is the best egg nog I ever tasted, and I have tasted a few.




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The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook

by Alice B. Toklas

Format: Paperback
Publication Date: 1998-06-01
Publisher: The Lyons Press
ISBN: 1558217541

    List Price: $14.95
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Page last updated on: 18 Mar 2010